The highest point of your journey is at La Bastide, an altitude of 3339 feet, confirming the line’s status as France’s last remaining working mountain railroad. La Bastide is where the line crosses the watershed between The Atlantic and The Mediterranean. It is a junction of historical standing, where The Cevenol meets the medieval Regordane and the ever more popular
Stevenson Trail. I really enjoyed the 300-metre climb to Moure des Estombes via the Stevenson Trail – the yellow thickets of brum make for such a wonderful sight and I was fortunate enough to catch a glimpse of a couple of deer that crossed my trail at breakneck speed.
The next day took me into Ardeche via the fascinating
Notre Dame de Neige Abbey, celebrated for its liquor. One of only two such Trappist/Cistern (silent) monasteries in France, RL Stevenson stayed there for a few of nights whilst trekking the Cevennes in 1879. They didn’t succeed in converting him to their faith, but I was certainly sold on their red wine.
Back on the Cevenol the next morning, the view across Lake Villefort was something special before you disappear into another tunnel in anticipation of one of those heart-in-the mouth experiences across the Altier Viaduct - lying at 630 metres above sea level, this 257-metre viaduct crosses the River Altier at a height of 72 metres, the highest stone viaduct in France.
Feet back upon terra firma, I enjoyed the hike around the lake and remembered the stories of how it was created at the expense of the village of Bayard, the ruins of which lay submerged below the dam. Castanet castle was fascinating and I was pleased to see that its restoration following the recent internal fire had done nothing to alter its outward appearance as one of Le Midi’s cutest private castles. And the view from the other side of the Altier is magnificent.
The last hike on my tour was the chance to walk a fine Huguenot trail from Genolhac that climbs across heather-covered upland redolent of England’s north-western fells and the Scottish Uplands. It’s a fabulous figure-eight hike that takes you deep into Camisard country. Small wonder that Louis IV’s ‘dragonnades’ had so much difficulty tracking Protestant movements during the War in Cevennes.
Just down from Genolhac, on the way back to Ales, the stunning 410-metre long
Chamborigaud viaduct is a suitable grand finale to what must be one of the most eco-friendly and memorable walking holidays in France today.”
Walking Cevennes by Rail is an exclusive opportunity to go hiking in France that's only available from The Enlightened Traveller. The tour can be personalised to suit various levels of walking effort, from light to moderate and beyond. Seven and four-night versions are available from April to late October, with easy access via Nimes.
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